Training for Field Trials

As stated earlier in the blog I encountered field trials one as a lifelong curiosity, but also as a way to extend the hunting season. And in the vein of extending my hunting season I was under the illusion that I could send my dog to the trainer, and he would come back and perform flawlessly without any further need of practice or training from me.

This plan worked rather successfully for our Junior Hunt Title when the demands on the dog are minimal. But as the more is required of the dog, and as competition is introduced in the field trials, the less likely a couple months of professional training is going to be adequate.

Field Trial dogs that need to be steady to wing and shot require a fair amount of follow up by the handler. Oh sure, you can send your dog to a Pro for an indefinite period of time and allow them to campaign your dog all over the state or country to gain your Field Champion title but that is a rather expensive proposition. I ask John Rabidou  of Uodibar Kennels how much such a proposition would costs and he estimated about $8000.00. I for one do not have $8000 for dog training, and nor do I want my dog with someone else for roughly 3 of his first 5 years. So I have to take the “poor man’s” approach. But reality is that if you are going to be a successful handler of you own dog, pro trained or not, you have to know at the very least some basic training techniques. Likewise I would say that if your dog is going to be a field champion you should count on it having to spend some time with a pro.

For me my dog was trained to be steady to wing and shot and to retrieve by the pro I bought him from. Her name is Stacey Anderson of Anderson Range Gun Dogs. In fact when I picked him up from his last training session she fully demonstrated his abilities on live game. However, I did not know there would be “maintenance” required. How dare my dog need me to reinforce the training I just spent good money on.  Over the next several months and hundreds of dead quail my dog rather quickly taught himself that when the quail falls, it’s time to go and get it. And frankly I didn’t even notice because I was too busy enjoying myself. But when we got to a competition and my wow command on point no longer was effective I knew something had to change.

One thing I have learned is that when you think your dog knows something you have got to do it 10,000 more times before he really has it. And unfortunately those 10,000 time have to be done in 15 or 30 min intervals over weeks and months, otherwise you run the risk of burning your dog out, or making him mechanical. And in the field trial world mechanical is bad. Remember the judges want an independent desire.  The want to see a dog that looks like he is out there because he wants to be. And as dogs have different personalities and tolerances for obedience and discipline the amount and intensity of training needs to be measured accordingly.

And so we recreational handlers must also acquire training skills if we are going to successfully compete in field trials. This means that you will need a large area to train. I personally train with some wonderful people on their 25 acre farm. If you will get involved with your local gun dog club you will also find there is probably an economical training lease in your area. Many of our club members train in a common area.

Next you are really going to need a supply of live birds. Pigeons are the best because they are reusable, but quail or other game birds work well. Just their return rate is not as high. But having live birds also means having some form of coup and the added responsibility of feeding and watering the birds at least on a weekly basis. But rather than re-invent the wheel, again get involved with your local club. There will be someone there needing the same thing.

You will need some other training gear as well. Check cords, blank pistol, e-collar, and other items to make your training a success. I will go over some of the gear in a later post, but suffice to say that again the local club is the best resource for finding some of the items.

Lastly it takes some sense of dedication. Your dog needs yard work often. Healing and wowing and retrieving can be done every day in the yard. Aside from sharpening the skills it also establishes and maintains the proper working relationship. I personally train my dog on birds once a week, but try to get him out to run at least twice. By run I mean 30 min to an hour of running in the open hunting. Fortunately we have access to a 300 acre ranch for this.

Just remember though… once your dog gets it right you are a thousand more training attempts from that same dog getting it right 90% of the time. And in the process of this “training” you will be trained as a handler. And when you do go to the field trials and people give you “advice.” Treat that advice like bubble gum. Chew on it until the flavor is gone and then spit it out. 

Field Trials Are About Learning

If there is one thing you will learn running field trials it is that you never stop learning. There are thousands of variables at play with each running of your dog.

Weather is always a factor in sent conditions. I have run in 80 degree stagnant heat and 50 degree pouring rain with winds blowing 30mph or more. I have run on course into the wind and with the wind always at our back. So weather will always be a factor in how you handle your dog and how you move into certain “birdy” areas.

Wildlife is a variable as well. What will you do if your dog decides to chase game like deer, rabbits, or hogs? Has your dog been snake proofed?

Finds are variable. When you dog points a bird will it be deep in 2” thorns, or out in open grass? Will the bird fly right away, or will it run? What will you do if the bird is in a Mott and just runs from to the opposite side of the tree you are on and won’t flush? What if the bird is dead? (and yes this has happened)

The other dog can create a variety of unforeseeable combinations. Will the dogs honor each other’s points? Will they fight? If one bumps and chases a bird, will the other follow in the pursuit? Will the dogs play tag never hunting independently? Will your dog respond to the other handler’s commands or whistle? If the other dog interferes with yours on point, will your dog stay steady or will he break?

Call backs, as scripted as they are full of variables. Will the gunner kill the bird or miss? If they miss how will you handle it within the rules? When do you send your dog from the retrieve? Can you move after the dog has left for the retrieve? What if your dog can’t find the bird?

The course has its own personality and ability to throw a curve ball as dogs can find more than their fair share of ways to get off it. So where are the tanks, the fences, the obvious bird areas? Where are the ditches and ravines that might separate you from your dog?

Your dog’s personality is a big variable. Is the stud you know it is going to be on the course that day, or is the goofball personality going to show up? Will the dog handle the pressure and excitement of a new place, or will overwhelming enthusiasm cause it to run wild. Or perhaps not run at all.

You though are the biggest variable. Will you handle the competition? Better yet, how will you handle the competition? How will you handle the unexpected? Will you convey confidence to the dog and judge, or will you convey fear, loss of control, or show your rookie colors? All factor into a successful run.

And invariably when you begin to run field trials there will be some other variable not mentioned here. What is important to remember is that everyone out there is still learning from the most seasoned pro trainer, to the newest amateur. Most errors are handler related so do not give up or beat yourself up, learn from the mistakes and incorporate the variables into your work with your dog. It is impossible to train for every scenario so the handler must learn how to adjust on the fly and present his/her dog in the most favorable light.

And most important of all, if you encounter a situation you have never seen, or don’t know what the rules are concerning it… ask the judge. Usually he or she will give you some instruction, particularly if you are new at the game. 

Horses & Field Trials

At this point my dog is 3 years old and last year we ran several walking field trials, but in general walking field trials seem hard to find. So this year I decided to run horseback field trials. Not a gigantic issue as I have my own horses, and have been recreational riding for years.  I also have a 2 horse bumper pull trailer with a dressing area on the front large enough to camp in. For the rookies there are numerous considerations regarding horses and field trials. Below are just a few. 

BREED -

My horse is a Paint and very good on the trails, un-spooked by much of anything, but not gaited. It did not take more than one brace of riding in a horseback trial to figure out why everyone seems to be riding a Tennessee Walker or Missouri Fox Trotter. Both are gaited horses and if you are going to do horseback field trials long term it is highly recommended that you get a gaited horse.  Costs for a suitable animal may be from $1000 - $5000. But the gaited horses have not only a smoother ride, but they have a faster paced walk. For my Paint the pace of the field trial is between a walk and a trot. So when we are walking we are falling behind, and when we are trotting we are going too fast. But comfort is the key as any handler wants to ride as many braces as possible to learn, and see the numerous variables that have to be adjusted to while competing.

CAMPING WITH HORSE-

Another gigantic consideration when bringing your own horse is how to camp with the horse. There are no stalls or corrals at the field trials so you have to secure your horse usually overnight or longer in camp. There are several ways to do this. Also learn from my mistake and go with a method you have never used or at least tried at home before you camp with your horse.

                STAKE OUT-

                The most common method of containing the horses that I have seen so far is a stake out.  This is done my connecting the horse to center pin with a 15’ +/- rope or rubber coated cable. I personally recommend a rope so that it can be cut in an emergency. Some of these items can be found HERE.   Another thing that I have not seen at the field trials but highly recommend is a quick release clip on the horse end of the rope. (though my friend likes it on the opposite end) I say this because I staked my horse out for the first time, and he nearly died as the cable I was using wrapped on one leg pulling his head down and cutting off his air. I wasn't smart enough to pull the steak up, and rather was able to man handle him free. Fortunately the worse did not happened, but he has still not learned to be on a stake out. Another consideration is how you connect to the horse. Some use a halter, but I do not recommend this because the horse if tangle is compromised, and it pulls their chin down potentially cutting off their air. There is a collar for horses similar to a dog collar, that seem to be commonly used, but there are stories of horse breaking their neck with these. You may also use a collars to hobble the horse on the leg. 

                PICKET LINE –

                A picket line is where a rope is run 5’-7’ off the ground usually between to trees, and drop lines are tied periodically to connect to the horses. ClickHERE for an excellent article on this process. In general it is considered safer and affords the horse ample room to lay down after a hard day. Big key on this is to make sure the drop line (lead) goes about 3” from the ground. You do not want the lead to go all the way to the ground and horses can become entangled.

 TRAILER TIE OFF –

                This is my current method, but only because my horse is a slow learner. My lead attached to the trailer does not go all the way to the ground for safety. I will say that I find nothing but negatives to this method. First I sleep in my trailer and my horse wakes me up often rubbing on it, knocking his water bucket around, etc. Second, he has pulled one of the welded rings off the trailer in a need to go exploring at 3:00am. Third, they really cannot lay down that close to the trailer. Though this is perfect for tacking up, it is not really a good overnight option.

                TEMPORARY CORAL -       

                This is done my bringing with you 4-6 pre-fabricated corral panels and assembling a temporary corral. By far the safest method but requires space to be able to transport them along with all the other gear.
Another good option in the temporary coral is an electric fence setup. There are post that can be put in simply by hand, he electric fencing is reusable, and there are plenty of battery powered units to run it. But again, this is something the horses should have been practiced with at home. They can spook and run through this temporary setup.

FOOD & WATER for the Horse

The grounds 99% of the time will have water available for the animals. Always make sure your horse has water within reach, and plan on enough hay/grain etc for the trip. If you don’t pack your own water in bulk at least bring a 5 gallon container so that you can transport the water from the source to your animals while at the trial.

SADDLE

Saddle is a matter of personal preference. I ride in a western saddle because that is what I own. The most common saddle I see is probably a trooper saddle. The are more comfortable for a long day, and have lost of rings to hang things like GPS dog tracers, dog leads, water bottles, and other items that might some in handy while afield. 

Horse and the field trials are actually one of the things that make it more enjoyable. For one, it is a perfect pace to keep up with the dogs. Second, it is peaceful without all the noise of a 4-wheeler or other ATV. Third, it preserves the land. Horse can walk all over the land and you barely see where they have been. Motorized vehicles on the other hand leave semi-permanent paths everywhere they go. Lastly, it preserves a tradition. Yes it is an expense and obligation that most dog owners, even Pointing Breed dog owners don’t incur. Horseback riding is a skill most people never learn, but with a good club and the fine people that trial there is always a way to get someone a horse even if they don’t own their own.

How To Find a Field Trial

If you are new to Field Trials, or never done one, then by all means do not be afraid to go to one. The easiest way to find a field trial in your area is go to the AKC Event Calendar and search for one.  CLICK HERE Not only can you filter by State, Competition Type, but you can also filter by “all future events” which will help.

Remember different breeds offer different types of Field Trials. German Shorthaired Pointers are “Pointing Breed.”

From there you will see the Club hosting the event, the dates, and the City it is located. But this is unfortunately not enough information to get there. For directions, running order, services available, and nearby hotels you need a Premium. Premiums are available from the Trial Secretary. So if you click on the Club Name from the search you will be redirected to an Event form. From there e-mail the Event Secretary and request a Premium.

Once you have the Premium it will give the order of events. Usually something like Open All Age to be followed by Amateur Gun Dog, etc. Feel free also to ask the Event secretary when they think the dogs will actually run. But they have no way of knowing exactly or until a couple of days before the event when all the entries are in. Each brace is 30 min and trials usually start at 7:30am to 8:00am so you can do the math if you have a running order.

Also if you are just going to visit introduce yourself when you get there. Everyone is usually more than friendly and welcoming of a new face. Most stakes are run on horseback so unless you have a horse there is not a lot to see in the field, but Hunt Test are all walking and very similar to Field Trials and a great way to get acquainted with the game.

Be aware that the 2 people in front are the handlers. The 2 people next are the judges. Everyone else must remain behind the judges. Spectators should stay on the path and behind the judges whereas Scouts for the handlers are free to move side to side. Depending on the cover, some of most of the run of the dogs goes unseen, but the action on the point is always a beautiful thing to watch. Plus being a spectator allows you to learn as a handler by watching how others handle it.

If you would like to ride horseback ask the Event Secretary BEFORE going if anyone has a horse to rent and/or borrower. Also let them know if you will need a saddle as well. This is a sport you can do with little resources and you don’t need a stable full of horses or the $100K trailer to pull them.

So go, have fun, ask questions, and by all means participate. 

Field Trial Glossary of Terms

When I accidentally entered the world of pointer field trials two years ago I was confused by the terms, so perhaps this glossary will help you understand if you are new to the game.

Field Trial – term that describes a competition between dogs. AKC has field trials broken out by breed talent. Beagles, Labs, and Pointers have field trials but all very different. For the Pointer field trials there is additional variance determined by breed. For example Brittany’s do not have a retrieve in their field trial while German Shorthaired Pointers do. But usually all pointing breeds can run in a pointing field trial. Additionally 2 dogs run on course at a time, but all dogs in a class are judged for which individual dog performs the best. Pointing field trials are normally run from horse back. Horseback is not a requirement but the most efficient way through the course and offers the best vantage to see. Other organization like NSTRA have walking field trials. For AKC birds are not typically shot on course, but for NSTRA the handler must shoot the birds as they are found. AKC field trials are breeder oriented. So dogs are judged on rare characteristics that would possibly pass on to offspring. This includes but is not limited to their run, their independence, and bird finding ability. Obedience is a minor issue and I would describe field champions as right on the edge of being uncontrollable, or at least appearing that way. And certainly any field champion is capable of being excessively “independent” on any given day. The idea being you can always reduce a trait, but can never add it.

Hunt Test – Hunt test are very similar to field trials except they are pass/fail and not a competition. Additionally they are a walking event, so only horses for the judges and/or spectators. Dogs are judged in different areas and receive a numerical score. If the pass they get 1 or the 3 points needed for the title. Pass 3 times and the get the title added after their name on the pedigree. There are 3 hunt test titles for pointing breeds. Junior Hunter, Senior Hunter, and Master Hunter. I recommend AKC Hunt Test for anyone with a pointing breed.

Stake – a stake is the event individual event the dog and handler are competing in. A single field trial normally included multiple stakes, and single dogs and handler can potentially compete in multiple stakes. A stake is described first as the handler i.e. open and then the dog i.e. gun dog. So one stake in a field trial may be Open Gun Dog.

Open Stake – open to amateur and pro handlers alike.

Amateur Stake – handlers and scouts must be amateurs. See further definitions below.

Limited Stake – usually limited to previous field champions, but having never run one not completely sure at this point.

Puppy Stake – is a dog between 6 and 15 months of age. There is no requirement to find birds, point, or retrieve. I would describe it as taking a puppy on a long walk and if he finds a bird good for him, but they are judged primarily on their run and independence and desire to hunt. There is a limit to the number of points a puppy can earn and use for his total in becoming a field champion. Handlers walk in this stake.

Derby Stake – is a dog between 6 months and 2 years old. The dog should find birds but are not required to be steady to wing or shot in this stake. If they do not find a bird they will not win the stake. Handlers walk this stake.

Gun Dog Stake – is for any age dog, but the dog must find game, must be steady to wing and shot, must stop to flush, and must honor another dog on point. The difference between this stake and the all age stake is range of dog. The gun dog ranges shorter in its hunting. The average may be 100 yards versus an All Age Dog that might range 500 yards. (Yardage just an example not a standard) Typically the handler is on horseback though no rule requires it.

All Age Stake - is for any age dog, but the dog must find game, must be steady to wing and shot, must stop to flush, and must honor another dog on point. The difference between this stake and the Gun Dog stake is range of dog. The All Age dog ranges further in its hunting, often out of sight. When the dog is out of sight they need to be much steadier as the handler is not there immediate to command. Typically the handler is on horseback though no rule requires it.

Junior Hunt Test – any age dog judged on hunting, bird finding ability, pointing, and trainability. Hunting being how well they run, bird finding being going on point to game. Pointing for the Junior Hunt Test is point but can break on the shot. And trainability being obedience to the handler.

Senior Hunt Test – any age dog judged on hunting, bird finding, pointing, trainability, retrieving, honoring. Same as Junior Hunt Test accept for pointing the dog must be steady to wing and shot. Birds are shot on course by designated gunners, and the dog must honor another dog on point, either on course or a call back. Dog must retrieve on course of call back.

Master Hunt Test – Same as Senior Hunter but dog must do it without a lot of verbal command. All activities must appear fully ingrained and natural.

Brace – is the heat if you will for a stake. It is comprised of 2 dogs, 2 handler, and 2 judges. Scouts and spectators are optional. Each Field Trial stake or Hunt Test stake is run in a brace and the braces are drawn at random a couple days before the event.

Steady to Wing – dog stays on point until the game is flushed. Can break when a shot is fired.

Steady to Wing & Shot – dog stays on point until handler gives him a command to move. The dog will be steady through the flush, and shot, and/or killing of the game.

Broke Dog– is a dog that is steady to wing and shot.

Force Broke– also called force fetching. Is a technique where dogs learn to fetch under pain and/or duress. Best done by professionals, but highly effective. The pain/duress is given my either ear or toe pinch.

Honor – also called Backing, is when a dog points a dog on point. This honor should also be steady to wing and shot.

Stop to flush – when a dog stops and points flushed game. Game that is not otherwise pointed but that appears to flush on its own. The dog is relocated on Handler command. Failure to stop to flush is automatic disqualification.

Delayed chase – when the dog chased game that have been flushed and not killed. This included game the dog and pointed and that the handler has fired a blank shot at. A delayed chase is automatic disqualification.
Amateur – Handler that does not, and has not trained or handled dogs for a fee.

Pro Handler – Handler that has trained or handled for a fee in the past or present.

Scout – horseback person that stays behind the judges and handler that can “scout” for a dog left or right that might be on point and out of view. Usually recruited from the other participants. This person is not supposed to double handle the dog, but reality is far different from the rules as Scouts often “unintentionally” push dogs out of brush back in front of the handler.

Premium – this is the brochure put out by the club in addition to the entry form that will have directions, local accommodations, services available on the grounds, and running order. They are not available on the AKC website and you usually have to ask for them from the field trial secretary, but are a critical document to have.

Handler – the person commanding the dog on course.

Double handling – Someone other than the Handler commanding the dog or herding it with their horse. Not allowed in field trials or hunt test.

Pinning – when a dog self-relocates on a walking or running bird. Great for hunting, but an automatic disqualification for a field trial, and a judge’s discretion for a hunt test.

PHP - short for Piss Poor Handler, the number one reason a dog does not complete a brace, and when the handler makes an error causing his dog to react and become eliminated.

Dope On A Rope - This is the term for the walk of shame when a dog is picked up mid brace and has to come back to camp on a lead. Normally this situation is PHP, but occasionally the dog just does something stupid and completely contrary to any form of training.

Collar Wise - When a dog knows that the e-collar has come off, and that he no longer has to listen perfectly because he understands he will not be nicked. 

The Passion

When I was 14 years old my Dad got on a lease in Three Rivers, Texas. This was classic South Texas hunting... big bucks, rattlesnakes, and quail everywhere. It was not uncommon to shoot 10 limits of quail a day all over a pair of unbroke Brittany's.

For me at 14 I blamed the dogs busting coveys on poor breeding. I thought they just didn't have what it took, and that for a quality dog steadiness should come naturally. And so without internet in the 1970's my limited amount of research led me to believe that a good upland game bird dog needed to come from a "field champion," even though at that point I had no idea what a field champion was. And it was at that point that I wanted to have myself a field champion.

Time passed, my dad bought me a dog that turned out to not hunt very well. Not because of breeding, but because I had no idea what I was doing as a trainer. Then in my 20's a friend of mine gave me a German Shorthaired Pointer. I had never heard of the bread, but he assured me the dog was professionally trained and "broke." I pretended to know that I knew what broke was, and promptly took the dog hunting.

There in South Texas the dog's liver and rhone coloring seemed to disappear in the mesquite brush. And it was on our first hunting trip that I learned what "broke" meant. It meant that dog would not leave point until you told him to. And it meant flawless snappy retrieves when the birds fell. I found out having lost my dog for over an hour to find him steady on point for the first covey of quail of the season. I was hooked... I had me a hunting dog.

We killed hundreds of quail together before Greta died tragically. And with her passing I decided to try my luck with a yellow lab changing game altogether. It was 3 years ago with the passing of my yellow lab Coco that I decided to go back to a German Shorthaired Pointer. My full intent was to reenact those quail hunting moments with my dad, and to live them with my sons for the first time.

This time with the help of the internet I picked the first puppy I could find, my only criteria being the dog needed to be predominately white. No more loosing my dog in the mesquite brush of south Texas. In finding the puppy, I also found the trainer, and it was at his suggestion I began the field trial game. He said, "You should try a field trial, besides it's a good way to extend the hunting season." And though I had always wanted a field champion, my beginnings in the game of field trials was truly with the intent to warm my dog up before hunting season, and make it last into the spring after.

I knew absolutely nothing about field trials. I did not know the difference between a hunt test and a field trial. I did not know the differences of puppy, derby, gun dog, or all age stakes. I had not clue about what it took to run open versus amateur. But I did have a dog, so I started with a hunt test.

One weekend into it, one score card with all 10's and I was hooked. But there is a lot to learn. There are terms veteran field trailers and pro handlers take for granted.  I hope to use this blog to answer questions, explain the game, and encourage others to get their pointing dogs out doing what they were bred to do.