Field Trial Gear

There are certain things you will want to have if you are field trialing your pointing dog. Below are some of the items I have with me at every contest we go to.

O-Ring Dog Collar – As opposed to a D-ring Collar there is nothing hanging down or protruding from an O-Ring collar. This for me is just a simple safety issue that can prevent my dog from being caught by a collar ring on a fence or brush for some undetermined amount of time. I personally get mine from Lion Country Supply because they can be bought with a nice brass  name plate already installed. Click here for the collars I use.

Reflective Neck Band or Field Trial Collar – A dog in a field trial may only have on 2 collars. For most one is a GPS collar. The other is either a reflective collar of red or green or a red or green field trial collar. Each dog is assigned a color or red or green depending on draw position in the brace. And short of running against a different breed dog the collar is usually how they are distinguished. For me the reflective band is easiest to see, but there are a host of options.

Blank Pistol – Birds are not normally killed on course and not often in training either. So a blank pistol is needed. They come in a variety of prices from $80 to $300 but be sure NOT to buy a .22 crimp. These pistols are usually around $30 and NOT allowed in AKC field trials. Full .22 like those used for nail guns are allowed.

GPS Collar – This is an expensive item but I would say a must. Fortunately I have not been to a field trial where someone was not willing to loan me one for my brace. Second the newer the dog is the more likely I would say that they have an very good opportunity to get “lost.” The grounds may not be familiar to the dog, and game or other distraction can send them running a great adventure rather than the field trial. The GPS Collar is good insurance.

Crate – Dog crates come from under $100 to custom trailers worth tens of thousands. This is all personal preference, but I would say a crate is a must if only for transportation. There are also lots of manufacturers of the nicer aluminum crates/dog boxes like Owens, Deer Skin, and others.

Stake Out – This metal stake with its swivel and chain allows you not have to keep your dog in a crate or on a leash securely. They are driven in with a hammer so bring one of those, but pull up fairly easily with only your hands.

Bowls – It goes without saying bring your dog’s food and/or water bowl(s)

Lead – This is a personal preference in terms of how you bring your dog to the line, and whether they will heal or not. And believe it or not there are a lot of dogs that drag their handlers to the line.  A second long lead will be needed in case your dog is picked up (disqualified). At that point you will need to “collar” your dog and take him back to camp. So unless you want to walk along side your horse with your dog on a lease you will need a 15’ – 20’ lead to bring them back. NEVER TIE THIS OFF TO THE HORSE IN ANY WAY. Always hold it in your hand so that you can let go if the dog and/or horse get into trouble.

Roading Harness – Many handlers use a roading harness when their dogs are picked up. They carry it with them attached to their saddle for this event. The roading harness keeps the dog from being attached at the neck and is another safety precaution as man, dog, and horses interact.

Training is not allowed on field trial grounds so we will cover some training gear in another post. In the meantime below are some links of just a few of the places I shop for gear for me and my dog. Please add any places you like to the comments below.

Lion Country Supply
Gun Dog Supply
Deer Skin Dog Boxes
Owens Dog Boxes

Training for Field Trials

As stated earlier in the blog I encountered field trials one as a lifelong curiosity, but also as a way to extend the hunting season. And in the vein of extending my hunting season I was under the illusion that I could send my dog to the trainer, and he would come back and perform flawlessly without any further need of practice or training from me.

This plan worked rather successfully for our Junior Hunt Title when the demands on the dog are minimal. But as the more is required of the dog, and as competition is introduced in the field trials, the less likely a couple months of professional training is going to be adequate.

Field Trial dogs that need to be steady to wing and shot require a fair amount of follow up by the handler. Oh sure, you can send your dog to a Pro for an indefinite period of time and allow them to campaign your dog all over the state or country to gain your Field Champion title but that is a rather expensive proposition. I ask John Rabidou  of Uodibar Kennels how much such a proposition would costs and he estimated about $8000.00. I for one do not have $8000 for dog training, and nor do I want my dog with someone else for roughly 3 of his first 5 years. So I have to take the “poor man’s” approach. But reality is that if you are going to be a successful handler of you own dog, pro trained or not, you have to know at the very least some basic training techniques. Likewise I would say that if your dog is going to be a field champion you should count on it having to spend some time with a pro.

For me my dog was trained to be steady to wing and shot and to retrieve by the pro I bought him from. Her name is Stacey Anderson of Anderson Range Gun Dogs. In fact when I picked him up from his last training session she fully demonstrated his abilities on live game. However, I did not know there would be “maintenance” required. How dare my dog need me to reinforce the training I just spent good money on.  Over the next several months and hundreds of dead quail my dog rather quickly taught himself that when the quail falls, it’s time to go and get it. And frankly I didn’t even notice because I was too busy enjoying myself. But when we got to a competition and my wow command on point no longer was effective I knew something had to change.

One thing I have learned is that when you think your dog knows something you have got to do it 10,000 more times before he really has it. And unfortunately those 10,000 time have to be done in 15 or 30 min intervals over weeks and months, otherwise you run the risk of burning your dog out, or making him mechanical. And in the field trial world mechanical is bad. Remember the judges want an independent desire.  The want to see a dog that looks like he is out there because he wants to be. And as dogs have different personalities and tolerances for obedience and discipline the amount and intensity of training needs to be measured accordingly.

And so we recreational handlers must also acquire training skills if we are going to successfully compete in field trials. This means that you will need a large area to train. I personally train with some wonderful people on their 25 acre farm. If you will get involved with your local gun dog club you will also find there is probably an economical training lease in your area. Many of our club members train in a common area.

Next you are really going to need a supply of live birds. Pigeons are the best because they are reusable, but quail or other game birds work well. Just their return rate is not as high. But having live birds also means having some form of coup and the added responsibility of feeding and watering the birds at least on a weekly basis. But rather than re-invent the wheel, again get involved with your local club. There will be someone there needing the same thing.

You will need some other training gear as well. Check cords, blank pistol, e-collar, and other items to make your training a success. I will go over some of the gear in a later post, but suffice to say that again the local club is the best resource for finding some of the items.

Lastly it takes some sense of dedication. Your dog needs yard work often. Healing and wowing and retrieving can be done every day in the yard. Aside from sharpening the skills it also establishes and maintains the proper working relationship. I personally train my dog on birds once a week, but try to get him out to run at least twice. By run I mean 30 min to an hour of running in the open hunting. Fortunately we have access to a 300 acre ranch for this.

Just remember though… once your dog gets it right you are a thousand more training attempts from that same dog getting it right 90% of the time. And in the process of this “training” you will be trained as a handler. And when you do go to the field trials and people give you “advice.” Treat that advice like bubble gum. Chew on it until the flavor is gone and then spit it out. 

Field Trials Are About Learning

If there is one thing you will learn running field trials it is that you never stop learning. There are thousands of variables at play with each running of your dog.

Weather is always a factor in sent conditions. I have run in 80 degree stagnant heat and 50 degree pouring rain with winds blowing 30mph or more. I have run on course into the wind and with the wind always at our back. So weather will always be a factor in how you handle your dog and how you move into certain “birdy” areas.

Wildlife is a variable as well. What will you do if your dog decides to chase game like deer, rabbits, or hogs? Has your dog been snake proofed?

Finds are variable. When you dog points a bird will it be deep in 2” thorns, or out in open grass? Will the bird fly right away, or will it run? What will you do if the bird is in a Mott and just runs from to the opposite side of the tree you are on and won’t flush? What if the bird is dead? (and yes this has happened)

The other dog can create a variety of unforeseeable combinations. Will the dogs honor each other’s points? Will they fight? If one bumps and chases a bird, will the other follow in the pursuit? Will the dogs play tag never hunting independently? Will your dog respond to the other handler’s commands or whistle? If the other dog interferes with yours on point, will your dog stay steady or will he break?

Call backs, as scripted as they are full of variables. Will the gunner kill the bird or miss? If they miss how will you handle it within the rules? When do you send your dog from the retrieve? Can you move after the dog has left for the retrieve? What if your dog can’t find the bird?

The course has its own personality and ability to throw a curve ball as dogs can find more than their fair share of ways to get off it. So where are the tanks, the fences, the obvious bird areas? Where are the ditches and ravines that might separate you from your dog?

Your dog’s personality is a big variable. Is the stud you know it is going to be on the course that day, or is the goofball personality going to show up? Will the dog handle the pressure and excitement of a new place, or will overwhelming enthusiasm cause it to run wild. Or perhaps not run at all.

You though are the biggest variable. Will you handle the competition? Better yet, how will you handle the competition? How will you handle the unexpected? Will you convey confidence to the dog and judge, or will you convey fear, loss of control, or show your rookie colors? All factor into a successful run.

And invariably when you begin to run field trials there will be some other variable not mentioned here. What is important to remember is that everyone out there is still learning from the most seasoned pro trainer, to the newest amateur. Most errors are handler related so do not give up or beat yourself up, learn from the mistakes and incorporate the variables into your work with your dog. It is impossible to train for every scenario so the handler must learn how to adjust on the fly and present his/her dog in the most favorable light.

And most important of all, if you encounter a situation you have never seen, or don’t know what the rules are concerning it… ask the judge. Usually he or she will give you some instruction, particularly if you are new at the game. 

Horses & Field Trials

At this point my dog is 3 years old and last year we ran several walking field trials, but in general walking field trials seem hard to find. So this year I decided to run horseback field trials. Not a gigantic issue as I have my own horses, and have been recreational riding for years.  I also have a 2 horse bumper pull trailer with a dressing area on the front large enough to camp in. For the rookies there are numerous considerations regarding horses and field trials. Below are just a few. 

BREED -

My horse is a Paint and very good on the trails, un-spooked by much of anything, but not gaited. It did not take more than one brace of riding in a horseback trial to figure out why everyone seems to be riding a Tennessee Walker or Missouri Fox Trotter. Both are gaited horses and if you are going to do horseback field trials long term it is highly recommended that you get a gaited horse.  Costs for a suitable animal may be from $1000 - $5000. But the gaited horses have not only a smoother ride, but they have a faster paced walk. For my Paint the pace of the field trial is between a walk and a trot. So when we are walking we are falling behind, and when we are trotting we are going too fast. But comfort is the key as any handler wants to ride as many braces as possible to learn, and see the numerous variables that have to be adjusted to while competing.

CAMPING WITH HORSE-

Another gigantic consideration when bringing your own horse is how to camp with the horse. There are no stalls or corrals at the field trials so you have to secure your horse usually overnight or longer in camp. There are several ways to do this. Also learn from my mistake and go with a method you have never used or at least tried at home before you camp with your horse.

                STAKE OUT-

                The most common method of containing the horses that I have seen so far is a stake out.  This is done my connecting the horse to center pin with a 15’ +/- rope or rubber coated cable. I personally recommend a rope so that it can be cut in an emergency. Some of these items can be found HERE.   Another thing that I have not seen at the field trials but highly recommend is a quick release clip on the horse end of the rope. (though my friend likes it on the opposite end) I say this because I staked my horse out for the first time, and he nearly died as the cable I was using wrapped on one leg pulling his head down and cutting off his air. I wasn't smart enough to pull the steak up, and rather was able to man handle him free. Fortunately the worse did not happened, but he has still not learned to be on a stake out. Another consideration is how you connect to the horse. Some use a halter, but I do not recommend this because the horse if tangle is compromised, and it pulls their chin down potentially cutting off their air. There is a collar for horses similar to a dog collar, that seem to be commonly used, but there are stories of horse breaking their neck with these. You may also use a collars to hobble the horse on the leg. 

                PICKET LINE –

                A picket line is where a rope is run 5’-7’ off the ground usually between to trees, and drop lines are tied periodically to connect to the horses. ClickHERE for an excellent article on this process. In general it is considered safer and affords the horse ample room to lay down after a hard day. Big key on this is to make sure the drop line (lead) goes about 3” from the ground. You do not want the lead to go all the way to the ground and horses can become entangled.

 TRAILER TIE OFF –

                This is my current method, but only because my horse is a slow learner. My lead attached to the trailer does not go all the way to the ground for safety. I will say that I find nothing but negatives to this method. First I sleep in my trailer and my horse wakes me up often rubbing on it, knocking his water bucket around, etc. Second, he has pulled one of the welded rings off the trailer in a need to go exploring at 3:00am. Third, they really cannot lay down that close to the trailer. Though this is perfect for tacking up, it is not really a good overnight option.

                TEMPORARY CORAL -       

                This is done my bringing with you 4-6 pre-fabricated corral panels and assembling a temporary corral. By far the safest method but requires space to be able to transport them along with all the other gear.
Another good option in the temporary coral is an electric fence setup. There are post that can be put in simply by hand, he electric fencing is reusable, and there are plenty of battery powered units to run it. But again, this is something the horses should have been practiced with at home. They can spook and run through this temporary setup.

FOOD & WATER for the Horse

The grounds 99% of the time will have water available for the animals. Always make sure your horse has water within reach, and plan on enough hay/grain etc for the trip. If you don’t pack your own water in bulk at least bring a 5 gallon container so that you can transport the water from the source to your animals while at the trial.

SADDLE

Saddle is a matter of personal preference. I ride in a western saddle because that is what I own. The most common saddle I see is probably a trooper saddle. The are more comfortable for a long day, and have lost of rings to hang things like GPS dog tracers, dog leads, water bottles, and other items that might some in handy while afield. 

Horse and the field trials are actually one of the things that make it more enjoyable. For one, it is a perfect pace to keep up with the dogs. Second, it is peaceful without all the noise of a 4-wheeler or other ATV. Third, it preserves the land. Horse can walk all over the land and you barely see where they have been. Motorized vehicles on the other hand leave semi-permanent paths everywhere they go. Lastly, it preserves a tradition. Yes it is an expense and obligation that most dog owners, even Pointing Breed dog owners don’t incur. Horseback riding is a skill most people never learn, but with a good club and the fine people that trial there is always a way to get someone a horse even if they don’t own their own.

How To Find a Field Trial

If you are new to Field Trials, or never done one, then by all means do not be afraid to go to one. The easiest way to find a field trial in your area is go to the AKC Event Calendar and search for one.  CLICK HERE Not only can you filter by State, Competition Type, but you can also filter by “all future events” which will help.

Remember different breeds offer different types of Field Trials. German Shorthaired Pointers are “Pointing Breed.”

From there you will see the Club hosting the event, the dates, and the City it is located. But this is unfortunately not enough information to get there. For directions, running order, services available, and nearby hotels you need a Premium. Premiums are available from the Trial Secretary. So if you click on the Club Name from the search you will be redirected to an Event form. From there e-mail the Event Secretary and request a Premium.

Once you have the Premium it will give the order of events. Usually something like Open All Age to be followed by Amateur Gun Dog, etc. Feel free also to ask the Event secretary when they think the dogs will actually run. But they have no way of knowing exactly or until a couple of days before the event when all the entries are in. Each brace is 30 min and trials usually start at 7:30am to 8:00am so you can do the math if you have a running order.

Also if you are just going to visit introduce yourself when you get there. Everyone is usually more than friendly and welcoming of a new face. Most stakes are run on horseback so unless you have a horse there is not a lot to see in the field, but Hunt Test are all walking and very similar to Field Trials and a great way to get acquainted with the game.

Be aware that the 2 people in front are the handlers. The 2 people next are the judges. Everyone else must remain behind the judges. Spectators should stay on the path and behind the judges whereas Scouts for the handlers are free to move side to side. Depending on the cover, some of most of the run of the dogs goes unseen, but the action on the point is always a beautiful thing to watch. Plus being a spectator allows you to learn as a handler by watching how others handle it.

If you would like to ride horseback ask the Event Secretary BEFORE going if anyone has a horse to rent and/or borrower. Also let them know if you will need a saddle as well. This is a sport you can do with little resources and you don’t need a stable full of horses or the $100K trailer to pull them.

So go, have fun, ask questions, and by all means participate.